Sri Lanka

When to go

Sri Lanka has two monsoons, so there is always a good coast somewhere. December to April is dry on the west and south coasts and in the hill country, ideal for Galle, Mirissa and the Kandy to Ella train. Whale watching off Mirissa peaks between December and April. May to September is the season for the east coast around Trincomalee and Arugam Bay, while the southwest gets rain. October and November can be wet across the island.

Kandy's Esala Perahera, usually in July or August, is spectacular, with decorated elephants, fire dancers and drummers parading for ten nights.

Where to stay and how to plan the route

Our tea and coast adventure follows the classic loop: Sigiriya and Dambulla, Kandy, the train through the tea hills to Ella, a safari in Yala, then beach nights near Galle. A private driver-guide is the best way to travel, as roads are slow and distances deceptive; allow around four hours for most drives.

Families may prefer fewer early starts and a night near Udawalawe, where elephant sightings are almost guaranteed. Stay inside Galle Fort for its colonial lanes, or on the beach at Unawatuna or Weligama. Arjun Menon plans our Sri Lanka trips and often adds a Maldives finish.

Things to do

• Climb Sigiriya Rock Fortress early in the morning
• Dambulla's cave temples and their painted ceilings
• Temple of the Tooth in Kandy at the evening ceremony
• Hill country train from Kandy or Nanu Oya to Ella
• Little Adam's Peak and the Nine Arches Bridge
• Jeep safari in Yala for leopards, elephants and sloth bears
• The ramparts of Galle Fort at sunset
• Blue whale watching off Mirissa

Food, money and practical tips

Around one in ten Sri Lankans is Muslim, so halal food is widely available, especially in Colombo, Kandy and on the coast. Rice and curry, hoppers and kottu are the local staples. Remove shoes and hats at temples, cover shoulders and knees, and never pose with your back to a Buddha statue. Cards work in hotels, but carry rupees for tuk-tuks and markets. A local SIM is cheap at the airport. Tipping your driver-guide at the end of the trip is customary.